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Sana’a
The capital of the Republic of Yemen,
is situated 2.286 metres above sea level. It is
considered a real open-air museum, a city that
has preserved the ancient architectural style
which made it famous all over the world. In the
mid-1970s UNESCO declared Sana’a one of the most
endangered cities in the world.
In 1986 it was
given World Heritage status, a testimony to the
importance of its Mosques and minarets, schools,
suqs (markets),
samsarahs (hostelry-warehouses), palaces,
hammams (public baths) and the tower houses.
The region’s volcanic
origin and regular rainfall make it fertile, and
it enjoys a temperate climate throughout the
year with the occasional sharp frost in the
small hours of winter nights.
Sana’a has been of
great importance since ancient times, as urban
centre for the tribes: it lies at the
intersection of two major antique trade routes,
one of them linking the fertile upland plains,
the other Marib and the Red
Sea, and was a natural commercial
centre.
The name probably derives from a South
Arabian term meaning well fortified.
In AD 628
the last Persian viceroy, Badhan, converted to
Islam but tolerated other religions.
While
Christianity did not long survive the advent of
Islam, a Jewish presence remained until the
birth of the State of Israel.
Today Sana’a has
many Mosques. The oldest, the Great Mosque (Al
Jami Al Kabir) stand on the site of a Mosque
built around AD 630, during the lifetime of the
Prophet Muhammad.
Some of its columns are
pre-Islamic and some from the Qalis Christian
cathedral, though most of the present structure
is twelfth-century.
Al
Bakhiliyah
mosque was built during the first Turkish
occupation (1538-1630) and restored in XIX
century during the second Ottoman period.
Its
great domes are obviously of Turkish origin, but
the brick minaret is characteristically Yemeni.
The Suq
The heart of Old City of Sana’a is the
large and thriving
suq,
of pre-Islamic origin, extended from
Bab al
Yemen gate past the Great Mosque.
The
suq
has traditionally housed forty different crafts
and trades.
At its hub, traders sell coffee
beans and their husks for
qishr, and raisins, corn and cereals. The spice market is redolent
with rich aromas of cinnamon, cumin, cloves,
fenugreek and incense.
The central part of the
market was the Jewish quarter before it was
moved to Bir al Azab suburb.
Its building
reflect the ancient Jewish prohibition on higher
building and none exceeds two storeys.
It was
called the
Suq al Milh (salt market) and now this name is applied to the whole
suq.
It has been a centre for handicraft industries
such jewellery and, most importantly, the making
of the South Arabian dagger, the
jambia.
Among other crafts still practised are stone
polishing and the manufacture of blades,
leatherwork and carpentry.
Each craft had its
own guild headman, elected locally to supervise
regulation and trade.
The whole
suq is
presided over by the
Sheikh as-Suq,
or master of the market; another elected
official, the
Sheikh al-Layal,
is in charge of security.
Sana’a tower house
In the Old City of Sana’a around 14.000
tower house rise up six, sometimes even nine,
storeys high. The traditional social structures
of the Yemen partly
define the way a house is built.
In Sana’a’s Old City
a house is typically built on a solid base of
roughly hewn basalt blocks, dug half a metre
into the ground, projecting a metre above.
The
next levels are built of tufa and limestone of
various shades, dressed smooth on the outside up
to 6-10 metres above street level. They are
surmounted for the nest three to six storeys by
burnt clay bricks.
Much attention is paid to the
decoration of the exterior walls and windows,
with frequent use of pre-Islamic motifs,
including Sabaean script, ancient zigzag symbols
of water or snakes. But the most attractive
aspects of Yemeni architecture is the window.
These often consist of two parts: a lower part,
for viewing and ventilation, separated by a
lintel from an upper part which serves as
fanlight, filled with alabaster or glass to
throw light inside the room.
Other windows
include the
shubaq,
a perforated box structure jutting out from the
wall, so that a women can look down into the
street below without being seen.
Similar
structure are used for storing earthenware jare
to keep drinking water and foodstuffs cool. The
motifs used for windows have evolved over the
centuries.
Assemblages of half circles, circles
and arches are pre-Islamic designs; other,
particularly the rectangular windows and
coloured-glass windows, arrive with various
conquerors or through foreign influence.
The
most common in the highlands were round windows
glazed with alabaster, which in the warm
late-afternoon sun remind one of honeycomb.
Locals often say that these window created an
atmosphere like moonlight, and the natural veins
in the alabaster do resemble the pattern of the
moon.
In later timed the brightly coloured
amariyah
or takrim
windows, with intricate geometrical designs,
were introduced by the Ottomans.
These are made
by spreading gypsum plaster on a wall, smoothing
it and drawing pattern on it with a compass
which are then cut out before the plaster dries.
The window is then taken off the wall and laid
flat.
Pieces of glasses are shaped to fit, and
fixed into the cut-out holes before wet plaster
is applied around the edges on the reverse.



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